Used Horse Riding Spurs


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Used Horse Riding Spurs for Sale

Live Laugh Ride T-Shirt Small Sport Grey
Live Laugh Ride T-Shirt Small Sport Grey
Sale Price: $16.36
  Eligible for free shipping!
You Think High Maintenance You Should Meet My Horse Tank Top Small Sport Grey
You Think High Maintenance You Should Meet My Horse Tank Top Small Sport Grey
Sale Price: $16.36
  Eligible for free shipping!
Dog Is Man's Best Friend But A Horse Is Girl's BFF Hoodie Sweatshirt Small Heliconia
Dog Is Man's Best Friend But A Horse Is Girl's BFF Hoodie Sweatshirt Small Heliconia
Sale Price: $32.99
  Eligible for free shipping!




Vintage Pair of English Horse Riding Spurs w Leather Straps
Sale Price: $12.99
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ANTIQUE BRAIDED LEATHER CROP WITH SOLID SILVER MOUNT London 1923 horse riding
Sale Price: $201.34
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Horse Riding Spurs
Sale Price: $43.00
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Pair of Engraved SPURS COWBOY or COWGIRL Marking Says Rodeo Horse Riding
Sale Price: $19.99
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Vintage English Horse Riding Spurs
Sale Price: $9.95
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Horse Riding Spurs
Sale Price: $150.00
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Metal with Leather Straps Western Horse Riding Cowboy Spurs
Sale Price: $33.07
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COWBOY SPURS Metal with Leather Straps Western Horse Riding
Sale Price: $15.99
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Western Horse Riding Spurs w Basketweave Tooled Spur Straps NICE
Sale Price: $45.00
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Mens Spurs for Horse Riding
Sale Price: $80.99
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Boot Spurs Horse Riding Rodeo Bronc Busting Cowboy Western Working Silver Pair
Sale Price: $39.95
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REINSMAN SIDE WINDER BUMPER SPURS HORSE RIDING BARREL RACING POLE BENDING
Sale Price: $12.00
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SIDE WINDER BUMPER SPURS HEAVY DUTY STAINLESS STEEL BARREL RACING HORSE RIDING
Sale Price: $12.00
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Pair of Vintage Geschmiedet Horse Riding Spurs Tack
Sale Price: $28.00
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Old Vintage MANFIELD Riding SPURS Cavalry Military Horse Farm Ranch Western
Sale Price: $39.99
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View today's featured items as these sales end soon. Use the drop-down to view the new items, sort by lowest price and free shipping.
COWBOY SPURS Metal with Leather Straps Western Horse Riding now on sale for $15.99
Mens Spurs for Horse Riding now on sale for $80.99
REINSMAN SIDE WINDER BUMPER SPURS HORSE RIDING BARREL RACING POLE BENDING now on sale for $12.00
SIDE WINDER BUMPER SPURS HEAVY DUTY STAINLESS STEEL BARREL RACING HORSE RIDING now on sale for $12.00
Nice Metalab Stainless Steel Ultrafine English Horse Riding Spurs now on sale for $12.99
VERY RARE ANTIQUE VICTORIAN HORSE LEATHER WHIP RIDING CROP now on sale for $167.78
VERY RARE ANTIQUE VICTORIAN HORSE LEATHER WHIP RIDING CROP SOLID SILVER MOUNT now on sale for $167.78
VERY RARE ANTIQUE VICTORIAN HORSE LEATHER WHIP RIDING CROP SOLID SILVER MOUNT now on sale for $151.00
VERY RARE ANTIQUE VICTORIAN HORSE LEATHER WHIP RIDING CROP SOLID SILVER MOUNT now on sale for $251.67
Read the Used Horse Riding Spurs Reviews - FAQ and Questions
- please explain different types of western spurs?
Im trying to figure out the skinny on western spurs. I have searched websites but they only sell them, not explain the difference between them. I know some have a longer shank, some have more "spikes" some less. Which ones are the least severe? Are roweled better? Are barrel/bumper spurs mild? Thanks So am I correct in thinking these are pretty mild? http://www.horse.com/item/roping-spur-w-7pt-brass-rowel/WOM11/ the reason we are looking... my daughter is trying to teach our new horse to barrel race. She is an experienced barrel racer and has been doing it for several years on her other horse (locally). The horse is learning fast but not responding to leg pressure around the barrel like we would want her to. It was suggested that she try MILD spurs to encourage her to respond better.

A I use spurs and look into their proper use whenever I can. I read articles and the like. I can't tell you that my information is correct, but I'll tell you what I know. There are a couple of types of spurs. Ones with rowels, the wheels, and blunt end spurs. There are many styles of each. It's really personal preference. Just like with anything else, spurs are a tool that you use to help train or refine your horse. They can be used properly or misused. The key to training or riding a horse is to see just how lightly you can cue a horse. Things like spurs and stronger bits aren't there to train a misbehaving horse, but to refine a cue the horse already does well. Spurs aren't or shouldn't be sharp enough to hurt a horse. They aren't stabbed into a horse like on an old western movie. I use any spur I plan on riding with on myself to feel what my horse will feel at varying degrees of pressure. Basically, when you ride without spurs and only have your legs or heels to cue. The pressure is spread out over a wide area. Think of someone pushing your side with their open palm. That's great if your horse responds. We train them to. However, you'll get the occasional horse who ignores this and many horses who will do it, but won't do it with any enthusiasm or snap if you know what I mean. That's where spurs come in handy. With any tool, you always start out with the lightest cue possible and increase the pressure till you get either the desired response or a slight try toward the right response. I hardly ever use my spurs, but I always have them on and they are there if I need them. It's like 4-wheel drive on a truck. You may not need it often, but you are grateful of it when you need it. You can think of the analogy that applies to you. I personally ride with slip on, blunt end spurs. I like them. You also have blunt-end spurs that have necks and necks with different spurs. There are balls instead of blunt ends and ones that have straps instead of slip ons. Most rowel type spurs, if not all, have straps to help hold them on. These have varying length necks that have different shapes. You can usually get these types of spurs from plain to very decorated. Sometimes they have hook on top of the neck, that is called a chap guard. It catches chaps or long pants to keep them from interfering with the spur. The rowels are your next choice if you go with this style. The key thing to remember here is that the wider the point, the gentler it is. One of the most gentle is called a clover leaf rowel. The ones that have just a few sharp points are some of the most severe. Many semi-sharp points very close to one another is somewhere in between. To use the spurs, you never jab your horse. With blunt spurs, you give all your normal cues first, if they don't respond, then you turn your toes out and and touch the horses side with the spurs gently. You'll probalby be moving and you'll be bumping the horse a little regardless of how gently your are, so just trying to touch them should do the trick. If it doesn't, then you push in till they react, then you take off the spur and continue the leg pressure if you need them to continue performing the action. With rowels, the procedure is the same, except you roll them gently up and down instead of pressing in. The other posters were correct in that that they are used for lateral movements, such as sidepassing, yielding the fore/hindquarters, etc... Spurs can actually inhibit forward movement by lifting the rib cage and shortening the stride. Spanking to whatever degree behind your legs is what will help lengthen the horses stride and help it move forward. I'll tell you about length next. People say that longer shanks/necks are more severe and the opposite is true as well. This isn't really true. It can be, but because it's a fit issue. Say a tall person with long legs on a short/small/thin framed horse may have to lift their leg really far to engage their spurs. This could put you off balance and look unsightly in a competition. A longer shank that lifts the spur helps you engage it more easily and more discretely. The reverse is true as well. A short person who has a horse like a barrel could be constantly touching their horse with their spurs. A shorter shank could prevent that. A last note is that you have to be mindful of where you are, especially if you trail ride. There is a real chance that you'll catch your toe on a tree or brush and have your spur stab into your horses side. If I find my self in a situation where I'm not sure I can prevent it, I'll take them off and in an emergency I have to make sure I turn my toes in or lift my foot up on his butt before he gets hurt. So no spur is really more or less severe. It's how you use them. Good luck in your choice and it's good to learn how to use multiple tools whether or not you use them.
- How can I stop my horse from sticking his head down when riding?
How can I stop my horse from sticking his head down when riding and then dragging me around the arena? As he is sooo strong (shire x cob) it is almost impossible to get his head back up of the floor. Also any idea how to stop him dragging me around the arena? He doesn't stick his head down when he does this he just changes direction suddenly and i'm finding it impossible to stop him. Stronger bit, he's already in a gag on the last ring! I can't get ride of the gag, I have tried him in other bits as I don't really like gags but with the others I've tried the brakes go out the window and stopping is quite important really.He has issues with whips - either totally ignores it or starts bucking and takes ages to calm down again. I suspect he is seriously lacking in his education seeing as I brought him from a girl who rode him once or twice a month for 2 years. So I will be putting him on schooling livery in the holidays, but I can't do this until easter so any ideas how to help stop this a bit until then? I have only had him a month. Also he sort of lunges but gets very confused about what he is meant to be doing, so once you start a session on the lunge you have to stay on the rein you started on, if you try to change the rein he panics and spins around onto the other rein again.

A I don't think that using a stronger bit is going to help, if you're going to pull on the horses mouth every time he changes direction/sticks his head down or pulls on your reins, it'll only result in ruining your horses mouth. A whip could be ok, but since he doesn't react to it and only starts to act up even more, I suggest to use more leg.Use spurs if you have to. If every time your horse sticks his head down you give him a sharp squeeze/kick he'll have to react to it SOMEHOW.I can't tell HOW because I don't know the horse, he might start bucking like when you use the whip, so be careful, but he won't be able to completely ignore your leg if you keep nagging him, especially if you use spurs. If he tries to stick his head down, give him a nice kick/squeeze that he won't be able to ignore, in most cases he will lift his head up, then use your reins to block him and prevent him from doing it again, if you see he starts to lower his head and pull on your reins again, BEFORE he has a chance to completely avoid the bit and gain control, give him another kick. Eventually he'll learn that every time he tries to lower his head he'll get a kick and he'd like to avoid it. As for dragging you around the arena...you also have to learn to prevent it as much as possible. There is a certain FEELING that a rider feels when he's on the horses back that allows him to pretty much predict what the animal is going to do or what it is feeling (not in all cases of course), for example I can tell when my horse is going to try to start cantering around like crazy even if were in the slowest walk ever and you'd never guess if you'd be watching from the side. Thats why you should be able to feel when your horse is even slightly starting to change the direction/ move somewhere where you didn't ask him to, and react straight away. The horse is much much bigger and stronger then you (especially if it's a shire x cob) so if you try to stop/pull AFTER he has already done what ever it is (like changing direction, avoiding the bit, sticking his head down etc...) most chances are that it will be hard if not impossible. That's why in the first feeling of your horse starting to do something you don't want him to do, you should stop it already. If you get the feeling that he is going to change the direction soon (like if he bends his head all of the sudden ) make sure to bend is straight back to where it should be, using one rein or both if there's a need.(like if he's going to bend to the left, close your left rein, not allowing him to bend there, and use your right rein to direct him right/straight forward.) Sorry I made it so long.

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